Imagine a shower gel that truly works for your skin: instead of drying or irritating it, the product is backed by science and supported by research findings to protect, nourish, and hydrate dry skin – delivering genuine evidence-based skincare. This innovative approach earned Proof of Concept (PoC) funding at the University of Szeged’s 13th Innovation Day in 2025 for Dr. Anita Kovács and members of her research team, Dr. Szilvia Berkó and Dr. Mária Budai-Szűcs. Their project focuses on developing the formulation of a SMART moisturizing shower gel and examining its dermatological effects and stability. We spoke with Dr. Anita Kovács, associate professor, about the project.
The research collaboration behind the SMART shower gel spans nearly a decade, with associate professors Dr. Anita Kovács, Dr. Szilvia Berkó, and Dr. Mária Budai-Szűcs working together since 2016. Within the University of Szeged’s Institute of Pharmaceutical Technology and Regulatory Affairs, the team focuses on the research and evaluation of semi-solid formulations (such as creams, ointments, and gels), liquid dosage forms (including emulsions and suspensions), as well as innovative delivery systems ranging from various foams and in situ film-forming systems to nanolipid carrier platforms. Using a wide range of instrumental analytical methods, the researchers assess both the stability of these formulations and their effects on the skin and mucous membranes.
Dr. Kovács notes that the idea of developing a product line capable of providing effective protection against dehydration and dry skin had been taking shape among the team members for many years. This focus has become increasingly relevant, as a growing number of people are affected by xerosis, also known as dry skin syndrome. The condition may be triggered by environmental factors – such as UV radiation or extreme temperatures – as well as ageing, certain dermatological disorders (including atopic dermatitis), systemic diseases such as diabetes, and medication-related side effects.
Dr. Szilvia Berkó, Dr. Anita Kovács and Dr. Mária Budai-Szűcs. Photo: István Sahin-Tóth
Dry skin develops when the skin’s natural protective barrier function becomes compromised, often due to lipid deficiency or a lack of natural moisturizing factors. Strengthening this barrier is a two-step process: first, the skin must be cleansed properly – effectively yet gently – followed by the application of a lipid-replenishing, hydrating emollient that helps restore softness and protection.
For dry or damaged skin, thoughtful cleansing is particularly important, as unsuitable alkaline-based cleansers or soaps with a drying effect can further weaken the skin barrier. Building on the success of the first product in the range – a SMART barrier cream designed to protect the skin – the research group’s second innovation, and the winner of the 2025 Proof of Concept grant, is a SMART shower gel.
Restoring and reinforcing the skin barrier
As Anita Kovács explains, the novel formulation is designed to complement the barrier cream: when used together, the two products help strengthen the skin’s natural protective layer, which acts as a shield against external stressors.
Dr. Anita Kovács. Photo: István Sahin-Tóth
The researcher also emphasizes that skincare is an integral part of a healthy lifestyle. As the body’s first line of defense, the skin plays a crucial protective role, making it essential to maintain the integrity of the skin barrier – something that can be effectively supported through the development and use of innovative, well-designed formulations. In essence, when properly hydrated, the skin is better equipped to protect itself against external environmental stressors.
“In addition to moisturizing ingredients, our formulations will also include components that soothe the skin and help relieve itching caused by dryness. This is the complex, multi-level effect we aim to achieve. Both our barrier cream and the cleansing product currently under development share the same objective: to strengthen the skin’s protective function,” Anita Kovács explains.
What makes a shower gel truly “smart”?
But what exactly makes a cream or a shower gel “smart”? Anita Kovács notes that SMART is an acronym for Specific, Measurable, Achievable, Relevant, and Time-bound. These criteria capture the guiding principle behind the new formulations: their compositions are designed to address a clearly defined challenge – damage to the skin’s protective barrier – by delivering solutions that are scientifically measurable, clinically validated, achievable, and relevant within a defined timeframe.
“Dry skin is a symptom associated with a wide range of skin conditions. However, by strengthening the skin barrier, we can reduce the risk of dryness developing in the first place,” the researcher notes. She adds that dry skin is not limited to individuals with diagnosed skin disorders; it can also affect those whose skin is particularly sensitive to environmental factors, such as cold or windy weather, especially during the winter months.
“With these cosmetic formulations, the beneficial effects are not driven solely by active ingredients – such as vitamins and plant extracts. The type of cream itself, including the structural components that determine its texture and performance (for example, structure-forming agents and emollients), also plays a crucial role. When carefully selected, these components can significantly improve the skin’s barrier function,” the researcher explains.
Dr. Anita Kovács. Photo: István Sahin-Tóth
Scientific rigor
Building on years of professional expertise, the development of the SMART moisturizing shower gel follows a rigorously evidence-based approach. The process begins with the careful design of the formulation itself, defining the type and optimal proportions of cleansing, moisturizing, and skin-friendly ingredients. This is followed by dermatological assessments, during which researchers evaluate, among other parameters, the product’s hydrating effect and the condition of the skin barrier. The next phase involves stability testing, ensuring that the formulation retains its effectiveness over the long term.
Dr. Anita Kovács. Photo: István Sahin-Tóth
Outstanding results
As Anita Kovács notes, the SMART barrier cream received Proof of Concept funding in 2024, placing its development at a more advanced stage than that of the shower gel. By contrast, most studies related to the latter are scheduled to begin in 2026, meaning that the research group’s findings to date are based primarily on investigations conducted with the cream.
“We obtained highly positive results in both the hydration and transepidermal water loss assessments. Following application of the barrier cream, skin hydration increased by 80–90 percent, which is considered an excellent outcome, while long-lasting hydration improved by around 60 percent. Based on the transepidermal water loss results, the formulation also performed very well: it contains appropriate components and does not disrupt the skin barrier,” the researcher notes.
Anita Kovács emphasizes that many conventional cleansing products contain ingredients that, while effective at removing impurities, may also compromise the skin barrier. This recognition led the research group to design a formulation that cleanses the skin gently during bathing without causing damage. Following gentle cleansing, skincare remains essential – a role fulfilled by the barrier cream, which helps reinforce the skin’s natural protective layer through its emollient and softening effects.
Dr. Anita Kovács. Photo: István Sahin-Tóth
Potential applications in specific skin conditions
Anita Kovács also says that while both the cream and the shower gel serve the same goal – strengthening the barrier function of very dry skin – the two products are based on different formulation systems from a development perspective. Drawing on the experience gained during the development of the barrier cream, the research group’s task has become more streamlined: the hydration-providing components are already well established and do not need to be redefined for the cleansing formulation.
The researcher emphasizes that although the current work focuses on cosmetic product development, for individuals living with conditions associated with severe dryness – such as atopic dermatitis (eczema) – the use of appropriate cleansing and skincare products can significantly reinforce the skin barrier. As a result, flare-up periods may be delayed, allowing the skin to remain calmer and symptom-free for longer.
As Anita Kovács notes, the research group’s long-term ambition extends beyond the development of a scientifically robust cosmetic product to its practical application. Supported by the Proof of Concept grant, this work may open new avenues in targeted, evidence-based skincare, where scientific innovation meets real-world needs.
Original Hungarian article by Tímea Fülöp
Feature photo: Dr. Anita Kovács. Photo: István Sahin-Tóth
